It is best to let professionals handle it if you don't have the background.Īs for 5K lights being wakeful, it seems logical to me that the fact they kept Ken awake means that they would help me in bouts of depression. I know the load my circuit will handle and kept adding lights till I was satisfied yet was able to stay in a conservative range for the breaker.
2x2 drop ceiling light trial#
I'm fortunate to have had enough experience with electrical wiring that I was able to design and wire my own relatively simple lighting system and determine the optimum amount of lighting by trial and error. From 48" shop light fixtures to CFL's to now LED household bulbs I've been more than pleased with my lighting. Off hand,I don't know the CRI of the lights I'm using but I think I must have been lucky over the years because my preference of 5K has stayed consistent over a couple of different lighting choices.
This would make it much easier to balance the light output. If you're really that picky about your lighting, you might try putting all the lights in the room that are the same distance from the layout surface on the same dimmers, no matter where they are in the room. and that "evenly spaced" might not be a good solution for even lighting. If you do the math, you might find you need more lights, not fewer. There's a real physics reason people put lights under the top deck, and it's not just shadows!! illuminate four times the area, with one quarter the lumens per square foot.If your top deck is a couple of feet higher than the second one, the difference in lighting could be very significant. It should also make it simple to determine the Lumens per square foot (or other preferred unit) on the layout for that given distance. That should make it a rather easy geometry problem telling you exactly how far apart your lights need to be given the distance to the top of the layout at any given point. Seriously.īTW, part of the spec data available for your panels should include the angle of dispersal of the light. get your eyes checked, You might have cataracts. And if a light with CRI over 90 looks "washed out". Try again, with 4000K and 5000K lights, with a CRI above 90. (As can CRI.) Color temperature PREFERENCE, however, is very subjective. It can be measured very precisely and scientifically. I'd bet your "washed out" 5000K lights had a low CRI, and were missing many wavelengths of light.Ĭolor temperature is not a "personal" thing at all. Look for a CRI near 100 for best results. It's also CRI (Color Rendering Index) A light can be 5000K, but only 70 CRI. Keep the lighting temp over your workbench consistent with that over your pike so as to avoid any surprises when you paint structures and rolling stock. Gray skies and fall/winter scenery like that of Mike Confalone might well benefit in "mood and feel" by careful choice of color temp where spring and summer is different. Occasionally when we run short on bulbs in the house, I loan a 5K for living spaces but my wife doesn't care for them too much and I can sort of see why.Ī couple of other points you've probably thought of but just in case.Ĭonsider what season you model. I pretty much stay in 5K light when I'm in the railroad/ham station/computer room and I find it actually helps me with my occasional bouts of depression although 4K might do so as well.
I've also come to dislike the orange yellowish tinge of older incandescent bulbs on the other end of the spectrum. I have to "fix" photos made with them in software. On the other hand, I have 6500K lights in my "photographer light set" and I can't stand them and need to replace the bulbs when I can. You have your opinion of 5K which you stated but personally for me, I think it's perfect.
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